Wine professionals pride themselves on nuance—tasting terroir, understanding fermentation, and tracing a grape’s journey from vineyard to bottle. But ask that same sommelier about tequila, and things can get… foggy. Maybe a memory of shots in college, a cheap Margarita, or the vanilla bomb from a celebrity brand.
Let’s fix that.
Tequila, at its best, has as much complexity and craft as Burgundy or Barolo. It’s a spirit with strict geographical boundaries, deep cultural roots, and a production process that rewards transparency and tradition. If you’re serious about flavor, place, and process, tequila belongs on your radar—and your back bar.
What Is Tequila, Really?
Tequila is a protected designation of origin (PDO) product, much like Champagne or Cognac. It must be made from Blue Weber Agave (Agave tequilana), and only in designated regions of Mexico, primarily the state of Jalisco, with some production allowed in limited areas of Nayarit, Guanajuato, Michoacán, and Tamaulipas.
It’s governed by a national regulation (NOM-006), which is enforced by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila (CRT). Only producers registered with the CRT can legally use the name “tequila” on their bottles.
That’s the legal stuff. The real story begins in the fields.
From Agave to Glass
Agave is a succulent, not a cactus. Each Blue Weber Agave plant takes 6 to 10 years to mature, absorbing the character of its soil, slope, and sunlight. When harvested, the spiky leaves are cut away to reveal the heart—the piña—which can weigh upwards of 90 kilos.
Those piñas are then cooked, either slowly in brick ovens (hornos) or quickly in autoclaves. The most industrial producers skip cooking entirely, using diffusers—a method that extracts sugars using acid and pressure. Efficient, but soulless.
Cooked piñas are shredded or crushed—sometimes with a tahona, a giant stone wheel—and their sweet juice (aguamiel) is fermented, sometimes with wild yeasts, sometimes with cultured strains. Fermentation can be simple or complex, influenced by tank material, temperature, and whether the agave fibers are included.
Distillation happens twice (by law), often in copper stills. After that, tequila can be bottled as-is or aged in oak barrels.
Styles You Should Know
- Blanco (Silver) – Unaged, or rested under 2 months. Purest expression of agave. Think of it like Muscadet—bright, bracing, and often underestimated.
- Reposado – Aged 2 to 12 months. Oak brings vanilla, spice, and a softening of alcohol. Often the go-to for cocktail bars.
- Añejo – Aged 1 to 3 years. Rich, smooth, with oak-derived notes of caramel, chocolate, and baking spice.
- Extra Añejo – Over 3 years of aging. Complex, contemplative, often more about the barrel than the agave.
- Cristalino – Añejo or Extra Añejo that’s charcoal-filtered to remove color. Marketed as “smooth” and luxurious, but often lacks character.
Terroir in Tequila?
Absolutely.
Tequila’s two dominant terroirs mirror a wine map:
- Los Altos (Highlands) – Higher elevation, iron-rich volcanic soils. Tequilas are sweeter, fruitier, more floral.
- El Valle (Lowlands) – Warmer, clay-heavy soil. Tequilas tend to be earthier, more vegetal, with savory depth.
Producers are increasingly showcasing single estate agaves and even vintage-dated releases. Sound familiar?
What Makes a Tequila Good?
Same things that make wine good: transparency, quality of raw material, and how little gets in the way.
Great tequilas:
- Use 100% Blue Weber Agave
- Are made without additives (no glycerin, artificial vanilla, or coloring)
- Avoid industrial diffusers
- Are distilled to proof (not diluted after distillation)
- Come from a trustworthy NOM—check the number on the back label to trace the actual distiller
The Tequila Matchmaker app is invaluable for this. It lists whether a brand is additive-free, and exactly who makes what.
Small Producers to Know
Want to drink like an insider? Skip the celebrity brands and start with these independent or family-run labels:
Los Altos (Bright & Floral)
- Tequila Ocho – Single-estate and vintage-dated. Agave transparency at its best.
- El Tesoro – Stone-crushed, fermented with fibers, distilled to proof.
- Don Fulano – Cognac-like richness with an agave core.
- Siete Leguas – One of the oldest and most respected traditional producers.
El Valle (Earthy & Structured)
- Fortaleza – Revered for its traditional methods and bold, rich profile.
- Cascahuín – Small-batch and nuanced. Offers limited editions and high proofs.
- Siembra Valles – Created by agave advocate David Suro; fermentation-focused and expressive.
Other Standouts
- G4 Tequila – Made by Felipe Camarena; minerally, precise, rainwater blended.
- Terralta – Savory and dry, built for sipping.
- ArteNOM – Curated series featuring top distillers from across Jalisco.
- Caballito Cerrero – Wild, raw, and rebellious—produced outside the CRT but worth hunting down.
Tequila for the Wine Mind
Tequila tasting isn’t unlike wine: swirl, sniff, and sip with intent. Use a tulip-shaped glass. Look for cooked agave, white pepper, citrus, and herbs in blancos; caramel, cocoa, and dried fruit in aged versions.
Food pairing? Tequila can do more than tacos.
- Blanco: Ceviche, oysters, goat cheese
- Reposado: Duck tacos, mole poblano
- Añejo: Roast pork, aged Gouda
- Extra Añejo: Chocolate, nuts, dried figs
Why Sommeliers Should Care
High-end restaurants now offer curated tequila flights. Michelin-starred chefs are pairing it with everything from grilled octopus to foie gras. For wine professionals, understanding tequila isn’t a party trick—it’s a competitive edge.
It’s a spirit born of patience, tied to the land, and full of story. If that doesn’t sound like wine, what does?
